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How to Steampunk a dress without really trying–Part I

January 25, 2010 by suzannelazear

The ball at the Riverside Dickens’ Festival is quickly approaching. We recently moved and I can’t find the dress I made (well, my friends made while I watched, lol) for last year’s ball.

My mission: to get a dress, cheap, and Steampunk it, cheap, as quickly as possible so I’d have it in time for the ball.

The caveat: It’s a Dickens’ Ball, not a Steampunk Ball, so I want it to be different and spectactular, but not totally out-of-place.

The problem: I can’t sew worth a lick and am so not crafty.  Also, after our recent move I have no idea where even to find a needle and thread let alone the sewing machine that I haven’t used in six years.

Step 1: I bought a Von Lancelot Costume off ebay for dirt cheap. The only problem was that the one I won was all white. What in the world was I thinking? But it was so much prettier than the other “birthday cake” style dresses in my size, and all the others were outside my budget as was a custom one.  Also, I needed a full on ball gown, not a bustle-stule dress.

Step 2: I asked my friends to help me with very easy ideas and the general consensus involved dye in a contrasting color. I was leaning towards black. Black and white would be very striking, yet would blend in far better than distressing it and putting a corset on top (which would be the easiest.)

Step 3: But then I actually got the dress in the mail. It is beautiful, but the fabric won’t take dye. Also, the dress is all one piece, so it wasn’t like I could do something easy like cut out the underskirt, dye it, and baste it back on with fabric glue and duct tape (yeah, that’s how I roll, lol). I’m very tempted to simply pretend I’m a debutante and wear all white. I’d never seen an all-white Victorian ball gown, but white wasn’t the color du jour for wedding dresses so I might be able to get away with it.

Step 4: I took the dress to the fabric store. I’m going to have to bite the bullet and replace the back panel and underskirt with actual fabric. I obsess over fabric and decide on black brocade. I nearly bought black and gold brocade but decided it would be too busy.  Less is more where I’m concerned.  Less is also easier.  Using my coupons, I buy fabric, ribbons, and giant satin roses. I also buy thread, needles, pins, and a large bottle of fabric glue.

Step 5: I decide to tackle the back of the dress first. Would anyone notice if I simply fabric glued the black brocade over the white satin?

Step 6: I laid out the dress and the brocade out on top of a blanket on the livingroom floor. Gluing the heavy brocade directly to the satin would make the panel really heavy and probably affect the drape of the dress. The panel would have to be to be cut out. I seriously reconsider the sanity of doing this myself. Usually, I either convince my friends to help me or pay someone to sew it for me. Did the sewing machine even make the move?

Step 7: Steeling myself for the possibility of ruining the dress, I cut the back panel off, trying to get as close to the ruffle as possible. If worse comes to worse, I can always bring the dress and fabric to my friend and plead with her to make it right.

Step 8: Using a white crayon, I traced the cut-out panel on the wrong side of the black brocade. Using my husband’s measure tape, I measured 1 inch around for a seam allowance. Then, taking a deep breath, I cut the brocade. Neither my cutting or my lines are straight. When I was an intern, I’d been forbidden to put labels on envelopes because I just can’t make things straight.

Step 9: I hem the fabric with fabric glue, so the brocade won’t fray. My husband wonders what in the word I’m doing and says he thinks he’s found the sewing machine.

Step 10: I’m afraid to fabric glue the back panel on. It’s a ball, with dancing, and well, people’s dresses tear. I have nightmares about the back panel ripping off entirely. Why am I doing this again?

Step 11: I pinned the new back panel on–it’s looking good. The hubby finds the sewing machine.  It takes about two hours to do all this.

Step 12: The hubby didn’t find the power supply. But the sewing machine scares me as visions of ruining the dress swim through my head. I wished I still lived across the hall from people who sew. The idea of calling someone and going over to their house to use their sewing machine just seems like way to much work.

Step 13: I start to hand-sew the back panel on. Several times I consider shoving it into a bag and taking it to someone else and paying them to sew it for me. It takes four hours and the stitches are far from expert, even, or consistent, though I tried to sew over the original seams and make small stitches. Maybe I should reinforce it with fabric glue.

Step 14: I replace the white ribbon in the back with black ribbon. It’s time to go to bed. The front will have to wait for another day. But all-in-all, it’s starting to look pretty.  I might just be able to pull this off.

To be continued…

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Posted in costumes, how-to, Steampunk | Tagged Steampunk, steampunk costume, steampunk dress, steampunk how-to, suzanne lazear | 16 Comments

16 Responses

  1. on January 25, 2010 at 7:06 pm Aileen Fish

    If you hand-sewed it in place, I would definitely back it up with fabric glue. As you said, there will be dancing…

    Also, I own several sewing machines. Feel free to call next time!


    • on January 26, 2010 at 1:18 am suzannelazear

      Thanks for the offer. Yes, I think it needs more glue!!


  2. on January 25, 2010 at 8:37 pm Cara King

    I’m looking forward to the next installment!


    • on January 26, 2010 at 1:19 am suzannelazear

      Me too, since that’s as far as I’ve gotten, lol Thanks for stoping by.


  3. on January 25, 2010 at 11:31 pm Mia

    Ooo, fun and terrifying! I just beg my friends for help especially the one who did the Regency dress for last weekend’s Jane Austen Ball.


    • on January 26, 2010 at 1:20 am suzannelazear

      That’s what I usually do. I’m still really not sure why I decided to do it myself this year…


  4. on January 26, 2010 at 12:46 am Skhye

    Dare I mention spray paint? You can lay lace over something and spray over the top layer to create a pattern. Maybe not the jolting contrast of black on white. Why not a little white on white as in off white? Anyway, best of luck to you. This was a truly riveting post. I just couldn’t wait to scroll down to see what you did!


    • on January 27, 2010 at 4:53 am suzannelazear

      Oh, I like the paint idea, but I’d so make a mess of it, lol. I’m glad you liked the post. Stay tuned for more adventures…


  5. on January 26, 2010 at 12:14 pm LaTessa

    Wow Suzi, that dress is beautiful and I commend you for this undertaking. I would be a nervous wreck, but I have no sewing skills to speak of-LOL.

    I can’t wait to see the finished product and good luck.


    • on January 27, 2010 at 4:54 am suzannelazear

      Yeah, I was a total nervous wreck, lol. I can’t wait to see the finished product, too. Thanks 🙂


  6. on January 26, 2010 at 3:29 pm elizabethdarvill

    More glue couldn’t hurt! Or duct tape?? You are brave for cutting out the back panel and I am sure it looks fabulous! Can’t wait to see what you do next!


    • on January 26, 2010 at 5:10 pm suzannelazear

      It was super scary cutting that off. I’m having problems with the front and am itching for either a dress form or someone my size and height who can wear it while I futz with the front pannel.


  7. on January 26, 2010 at 6:27 pm elizabethdarvill

    put on an old t-shirt you don’t mind ruining and have someone wrap you up in duct tape and then cut the shirt coated with duct tape off and put on a hanger and tape up the seam and stuff and you will have a cheep dress form!


    • on January 27, 2010 at 4:55 am suzannelazear

      Thanks a great idea, but it sounds like wayyy to much work, lol. Maybe I’ll just use my tot–or a stool–all I need is the bottom part, lol.


  8. on January 26, 2010 at 10:27 pm Deborah

    I think the story is fascinating. You should put this into short story form, it’s hilarious. (OK, probably not for you, but I’m enjoying it).

    A simple basting stitch on the sewing machine would be easy to remove if you don’t get it right — it would hold things together.

    Elizabeth – that is a brilliant idea for a dress form.


    • on January 27, 2010 at 4:56 am suzannelazear

      Hehehehe, that’s a great idea Deborah. Don’t know where I’d send it. I think it would give a sewing magazine hives. Maybe I’ll work it into a future story…



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